среда, сентября 22, 2004
Where Did You Buy Those Shoes?
Shoe Sale, Odessa
I just have to say, that I find this makes so much sense - too much in fact. Shoes cost money to produce - the workers have to be paid and the leather, vinyl, rubber, and so on has to be bought, plus the factory has costs. It takes time to make shoes. People buy the shoes to wear, and naturally the shoes are likely used outdoors in rain, sun, and snow. Why make purchasing shoes a hassel in some store - where costs must be higher? Then not only would the shoes have to be produced and brought to market, but then there would be costs involved in having a store, hiring a decorator, as is done in the West, to make the store attractive - then the heating costs, display costs, and many other additional costs. This would all take shape in making the final price of the shoes higher for those who wish to buy shoes. Much cheaper to simply buy them off the back of the truck that would have delivered the shoes to an expensive store and save all that extra money that consumers would otherwise have had to pay. The cost for the store does come from the price you pay for the shoes anyway. Does buying shoes from a luxury store make the shoes operate any better? Surely capitalism focuses on reducing costs to the consumer, right, and this is what makes that system so damned efficient - you never see fancy shoe shops in Capitalist countries because that would result in unecessary over head, or should I say underfoot, costs.
I just have to say, that I find this makes so much sense - too much in fact. Shoes cost money to produce - the workers have to be paid and the leather, vinyl, rubber, and so on has to be bought, plus the factory has costs. It takes time to make shoes. People buy the shoes to wear, and naturally the shoes are likely used outdoors in rain, sun, and snow. Why make purchasing shoes a hassel in some store - where costs must be higher? Then not only would the shoes have to be produced and brought to market, but then there would be costs involved in having a store, hiring a decorator, as is done in the West, to make the store attractive - then the heating costs, display costs, and many other additional costs. This would all take shape in making the final price of the shoes higher for those who wish to buy shoes. Much cheaper to simply buy them off the back of the truck that would have delivered the shoes to an expensive store and save all that extra money that consumers would otherwise have had to pay. The cost for the store does come from the price you pay for the shoes anyway. Does buying shoes from a luxury store make the shoes operate any better? Surely capitalism focuses on reducing costs to the consumer, right, and this is what makes that system so damned efficient - you never see fancy shoe shops in Capitalist countries because that would result in unecessary over head, or should I say underfoot, costs.
No Reform Needed Here
Post Office, Sadova St, Odessa
This is the post office in Odessa not far from where I live and work. On the outside the building appears ordinary, on the inside... Unfortunately, a picture cannot capture all the senses of this room. It is vast inside and usually busy with many people trying to mail their items. The agents working for the postal service are very helpful and they stamp the letters on the marble counters while you wait. This creates a loud thumping noise which echos off the walls. This would explain why no one has taken notice of the little boy in the picture who has abandoned his bicycle and is running in circles singing his favorite Soviet tunes he would have learned in Pioneer camp if it still existed. Instead, he whirls around in silence.
Impressionist Postcards For Sale!
Port of Odessa
If a person goes to the Sea shore in the city center of Odessa and looks to their right, Southward I guess, they will see kilometres of beaches and parks, outdoor beergardens, and beautiful landscape. If they look to their left, they will see the picture above - the beautiful Port of Odessa and all the machines that go along with it. I stood there and looked at this sight and wondered how every single postcard photographer, during both the Soviet and Post Soviet Era, managed to never take a picture to their left. It exists, is part of the city, yet never appears in any books on Odessa except for those designed for economic enthusiasts -the very same people who do not care at all about the other views. I am glad not all the world are made up of economists and not all governments take their advice from economists, otherwise this is the view that would prevail and people would have to enjoy the beach and swimming at the same time as trying to avoid large container ships passing through.
If a person goes to the Sea shore in the city center of Odessa and looks to their right, Southward I guess, they will see kilometres of beaches and parks, outdoor beergardens, and beautiful landscape. If they look to their left, they will see the picture above - the beautiful Port of Odessa and all the machines that go along with it. I stood there and looked at this sight and wondered how every single postcard photographer, during both the Soviet and Post Soviet Era, managed to never take a picture to their left. It exists, is part of the city, yet never appears in any books on Odessa except for those designed for economic enthusiasts -the very same people who do not care at all about the other views. I am glad not all the world are made up of economists and not all governments take their advice from economists, otherwise this is the view that would prevail and people would have to enjoy the beach and swimming at the same time as trying to avoid large container ships passing through.
Perestroika Successful
New Market, Odessa
On this site below you will see other pictures of markets - the Privoz in Odessa and the New Market. This is also part of the New Market not far from my apartment here in Odessa. This section used to look like the market below - it was an open style market with counters. A lot of these counters were torn down recently and in their stead new store-like stalls were erected - and very quickly. Some days I walked through here and bought things over open counters, a week later there was a new aisle in its place with windows and doors. How do you know what is for sale along this aisle? You simply look at the signs which state the types of products available inside the stall/store. These walkways are certainly wider and there is a lot less bumping into people as I shop along. I am also surprised that this reform has taken place. Typically over the past 6 years the first places to be rennovated were spots for tourists rather than taxpayers and non-taxpaying citizens. While certain governments in the world judge the former Soviet Republics' lack of reforms harshly, I think if they took a walk in the local market 5 years ago and again today, they would have a different impression. I found Julius Meinl coffee in bags selling for upto 30 USD in one of these stalls - which sell goods and services to local citizens rather than tourists.
On this site below you will see other pictures of markets - the Privoz in Odessa and the New Market. This is also part of the New Market not far from my apartment here in Odessa. This section used to look like the market below - it was an open style market with counters. A lot of these counters were torn down recently and in their stead new store-like stalls were erected - and very quickly. Some days I walked through here and bought things over open counters, a week later there was a new aisle in its place with windows and doors. How do you know what is for sale along this aisle? You simply look at the signs which state the types of products available inside the stall/store. These walkways are certainly wider and there is a lot less bumping into people as I shop along. I am also surprised that this reform has taken place. Typically over the past 6 years the first places to be rennovated were spots for tourists rather than taxpayers and non-taxpaying citizens. While certain governments in the world judge the former Soviet Republics' lack of reforms harshly, I think if they took a walk in the local market 5 years ago and again today, they would have a different impression. I found Julius Meinl coffee in bags selling for upto 30 USD in one of these stalls - which sell goods and services to local citizens rather than tourists.
France on a Euro a Day!
Marseille, France
If it were not for the cars in this picture, it would be difficult to tell if this is a picture of France or a place in the Former USSR. It is too difficult to check the clothing labels. This scene is very typical in Marseille, France, in the side alleys in the city center. I was shocked when I looked through tourist information at the local bureau and saw no pictures remotely like this one. I wonder if this is the kind of image of the West the World Bank has when it advocated that Third World Countries should westernize - or do they have worse images in mind?
If it were not for the cars in this picture, it would be difficult to tell if this is a picture of France or a place in the Former USSR. It is too difficult to check the clothing labels. This scene is very typical in Marseille, France, in the side alleys in the city center. I was shocked when I looked through tourist information at the local bureau and saw no pictures remotely like this one. I wonder if this is the kind of image of the West the World Bank has when it advocated that Third World Countries should westernize - or do they have worse images in mind?
No Evidence of Civic Life in Russia
City Center, Moscow
Just today I read again another article that claimed that the Bush administration and in particular, Colin Powell, are not happy with the new reforms being advocated by President Putin. They claimed that after many positive democratic reforms in Russia, Russia is now going down the wrong path after Putin announced some restructuring after the tragedy in Beslan. Actually, I never recalled Powell or Bush ever saying anything positive about Russia before, so I do not see how now they can say that they think things were going well and now they are not - it is more or less that they say this every time they comment about Russia, and probably, if we looked back far enough over the past 100 years, we would find the US adminsitrations suggesting that the Czar was better for society and any change on that would hurt the empire. The Russia Bush has in view is not the same Russia, apparently, that I see and admire and have visited. I see parks, roads, railways which work and serve the public interest and a public dedicated to open debate. Maybe these are exactly the features present in Russia that Bush and Powell would like to see less of both here and at home.
Just today I read again another article that claimed that the Bush administration and in particular, Colin Powell, are not happy with the new reforms being advocated by President Putin. They claimed that after many positive democratic reforms in Russia, Russia is now going down the wrong path after Putin announced some restructuring after the tragedy in Beslan. Actually, I never recalled Powell or Bush ever saying anything positive about Russia before, so I do not see how now they can say that they think things were going well and now they are not - it is more or less that they say this every time they comment about Russia, and probably, if we looked back far enough over the past 100 years, we would find the US adminsitrations suggesting that the Czar was better for society and any change on that would hurt the empire. The Russia Bush has in view is not the same Russia, apparently, that I see and admire and have visited. I see parks, roads, railways which work and serve the public interest and a public dedicated to open debate. Maybe these are exactly the features present in Russia that Bush and Powell would like to see less of both here and at home.
New on Outside, Same on Inside
St Basil's Cathedral, Moscow
I first went to Moscow in December, 1999, and of course the first place I went to was Red Square. St Basil's cathedral, pictured here, looked different then. It was worn out and looked historic. I went inside on a cold day and looked around at the icons painted on the walls and was impressed at the degree of freedom I had to simply walk and look while I ducked my head through the doorways inside. This summer I returned and as soon as I walked onto the square I noticed that the cathedral has had serious rennovations done - the paint is new, fresh and vibrant. The square looks and feels different - it looks like history in the making rather than history made. I was not sure whether I was happy or sad - I am only one person and Russia is not mine to mould the way I would like it to be - if many people want a fresh coat of paint and want their city to look different - then so be it - I must be happy that I had the chance to enjoy this same scene when it was old and worn out and now again while it is changing. I wish other countries could adopt so many fresh and positive changes - I wonder if the white house would ever be considered in need of new color?
Church Says Dull Colors for Old World Religions
Odessa City Center
There is nothing subtle about the color of this church. Most of the churches I see in Odessa all have nice deep vibrant colors. This allows them to stand out ina city where most buildings have not been repainted for more than a decade. I suspect that over the next several years, all of the other buildings will also have to be painted in bright vibrant colors to keep up with the revolutionary spirit of the orthodox churches' exterior decorators.
There is nothing subtle about the color of this church. Most of the churches I see in Odessa all have nice deep vibrant colors. This allows them to stand out ina city where most buildings have not been repainted for more than a decade. I suspect that over the next several years, all of the other buildings will also have to be painted in bright vibrant colors to keep up with the revolutionary spirit of the orthodox churches' exterior decorators.
Maps, Centers of the Known Universe
Oxhotniy Riyad, Moscow
No matter where I end up moving to unexpectedly, I alwasy expect to take a look at maps in a map shop. There is no standard for making or positioning world maps. If you grew up in North America, typically the North American continent would take center place on the map and you would be lead to believe, as a child, that if you went Eastward you would go to Europe, and eventually Moscow. But somewhere just East of Moscow the map would stop, and you would instead have to go westward to get to Siberia via the Pacific Ocean. Children of course would begint o think of the rest of the world as positioned around their own in much the same way as the map printers.
But if you go to Ukraine, you will find Ukraine occupying that sacred space - the middle of the map. Turkey, the same thing, and in Uzbekistan, you will find in Tashkent a globe statue where there is only one country wrapped around that large "map" and it is not the USA, it is the Uzbek nation. Maybe someday if the conteniental shelves move in just the right way, President Karimov of Uzbekistan will realize his dream has come true. I will not hold my breath, however, for this event. If it does in fact happen, I will learn Uzbek.
Not only are the maps centered differently, but you can also see which regions around the world the map printers think their local market value - you cannot put every single city on a map - of every region - you have to select some and leave out others. I was surprised to view a Ukrainian map of the world and see many places on the portion of Canada that I would never have selected at the expense of other places - like North York and many other places in Alberta - where there happen to be large diasporas. Interesting.
This photo is of the global map on top of Okhotniy Riyad in Moscows center, next to the Kremlin and Red Square. This is the first instance when I did not see what I expected in terms of maps and nationalism - the Kremlin is not at the top center piece - nor is Moscow. All of the major Russian places take peripheral positions around the center along with all other major capitals - except that Moscow is given an extra advantage of having a small ornament on its placement of the map.
Of course, one might argue - what about the Man on the Horse on top of the globe? Isn't that a nationalist symbol? Isn't that suggesting "Russia the conqueror of the globe?" Well, I do not know. I am not sure from which country the horse is and whether the horse has such global ambitions. I feel bad for the man on the horse though who does not seem to clearly have control and hardly has a weapon worthy of any serious confrontation.
No matter where I end up moving to unexpectedly, I alwasy expect to take a look at maps in a map shop. There is no standard for making or positioning world maps. If you grew up in North America, typically the North American continent would take center place on the map and you would be lead to believe, as a child, that if you went Eastward you would go to Europe, and eventually Moscow. But somewhere just East of Moscow the map would stop, and you would instead have to go westward to get to Siberia via the Pacific Ocean. Children of course would begint o think of the rest of the world as positioned around their own in much the same way as the map printers.
But if you go to Ukraine, you will find Ukraine occupying that sacred space - the middle of the map. Turkey, the same thing, and in Uzbekistan, you will find in Tashkent a globe statue where there is only one country wrapped around that large "map" and it is not the USA, it is the Uzbek nation. Maybe someday if the conteniental shelves move in just the right way, President Karimov of Uzbekistan will realize his dream has come true. I will not hold my breath, however, for this event. If it does in fact happen, I will learn Uzbek.
Not only are the maps centered differently, but you can also see which regions around the world the map printers think their local market value - you cannot put every single city on a map - of every region - you have to select some and leave out others. I was surprised to view a Ukrainian map of the world and see many places on the portion of Canada that I would never have selected at the expense of other places - like North York and many other places in Alberta - where there happen to be large diasporas. Interesting.
This photo is of the global map on top of Okhotniy Riyad in Moscows center, next to the Kremlin and Red Square. This is the first instance when I did not see what I expected in terms of maps and nationalism - the Kremlin is not at the top center piece - nor is Moscow. All of the major Russian places take peripheral positions around the center along with all other major capitals - except that Moscow is given an extra advantage of having a small ornament on its placement of the map.
Of course, one might argue - what about the Man on the Horse on top of the globe? Isn't that a nationalist symbol? Isn't that suggesting "Russia the conqueror of the globe?" Well, I do not know. I am not sure from which country the horse is and whether the horse has such global ambitions. I feel bad for the man on the horse though who does not seem to clearly have control and hardly has a weapon worthy of any serious confrontation.
Lenin Says He is Here to Stay
Lenin's Statue on Leninsky Prospect
In December, 1999, I took my first steps through Moscow. I was living in Petropavlovsk, Northern Kazakhstan, and took a flight from Omsk to the domestic Moscow Airport. After realizing that the taxi drivers wanted 20 USD and not 20 Rubles for a ride into the city (I thought 20 USD was too much and 20 rubles could not have been right - it would be too little) I opted for a bus for 25 rubles. This is where the bus left me - near the Oktyaberskaya Metro on Leninskiy Prospect on a cold, rainy, snowy, December day. This did not matter to me, as I got off the bus, I saw this statue of Lenin (taken this past August, 2004). This was the statue on the square I read about referred to in some books, and now it stood before me - and it was still here - I heard so much about how statues and monuments were removed quickly to rewrite history - why was this statue still here? even more interesting, I saw many people still stop by the statue and look at it. In Canada we have statues of Churchill I think in almost every Provincial capital city and I do not think I have ever seen many people, if any, actually stop and admire it, except for the birds which perch themselves on his shoulders.
You Can Tell a Lot About Someone's Personality From Their Headstone
Kruschev's Grave in Moscow
Not Far from the Sporteevnaya Station is a graveyard in Moscow which contains graves of many famous people: leaders, engineering heros, heros of various battles, and the list goes on. Amongst the many traditional gravestones - usually they are black or grey with a plaque and picture of the person, are some much more provocative stones. It is easy to forget that one is walking through a busy city while walking through this yard as it is quiet/peaceful. I noticed, though, this crazy headstone for Nikita Kruschev and was taken back by how unorthodox its style is.
This grave stands out clearly from the others around it on the main walkway towards the end of the first section of the graveyard - not out in open view, but you cannot walk by without thinking : here is a guy I can imagine who would thump his shoes on a microphone and tell the west, "We Will Bury You." I never knew much about Kruschev other than propaganda I had read from a very Westernized history text until a political scientist in the former USSR told me that this guy, as far as she could figure out, was incredibly progressive and unorthodox and represents a serious thaw after the Stalinist era and a move in a very new direction. I can imagine that before he died, he wrote to his caretakers and said something like this, " no traditional gravestone for me thanks. I want something that says bold, grey, and sticks out like a sore thumb."
Not Far from the Sporteevnaya Station is a graveyard in Moscow which contains graves of many famous people: leaders, engineering heros, heros of various battles, and the list goes on. Amongst the many traditional gravestones - usually they are black or grey with a plaque and picture of the person, are some much more provocative stones. It is easy to forget that one is walking through a busy city while walking through this yard as it is quiet/peaceful. I noticed, though, this crazy headstone for Nikita Kruschev and was taken back by how unorthodox its style is.
This grave stands out clearly from the others around it on the main walkway towards the end of the first section of the graveyard - not out in open view, but you cannot walk by without thinking : here is a guy I can imagine who would thump his shoes on a microphone and tell the west, "We Will Bury You." I never knew much about Kruschev other than propaganda I had read from a very Westernized history text until a political scientist in the former USSR told me that this guy, as far as she could figure out, was incredibly progressive and unorthodox and represents a serious thaw after the Stalinist era and a move in a very new direction. I can imagine that before he died, he wrote to his caretakers and said something like this, " no traditional gravestone for me thanks. I want something that says bold, grey, and sticks out like a sore thumb."
вторник, сентября 21, 2004
Moscow Time
Kremlin Clock, Moscow
This is the Kremlin Clock located on the side of Red Square. The clock and bells that go with it work. As you can see here, many people are walking along in front of the bell presumably watching time go by - why else would they look at the clock? I did not expect to see so many Russians and other former Soviet Citizens walking around on Red Square here around the clock. I thought that this would mostly be for tourists, but many people told me here that everyone visits the Kremlin and this was such a symbol, and continues to be, during the Soviet times and today. Lenin's monument is just to the right of here - he is mumified and the line ups to see his tomb are too long. I guess it is possible to stand in line, look at this clock tower and see for sure how long it takes to get inside.
This is the Kremlin Clock located on the side of Red Square. The clock and bells that go with it work. As you can see here, many people are walking along in front of the bell presumably watching time go by - why else would they look at the clock? I did not expect to see so many Russians and other former Soviet Citizens walking around on Red Square here around the clock. I thought that this would mostly be for tourists, but many people told me here that everyone visits the Kremlin and this was such a symbol, and continues to be, during the Soviet times and today. Lenin's monument is just to the right of here - he is mumified and the line ups to see his tomb are too long. I guess it is possible to stand in line, look at this clock tower and see for sure how long it takes to get inside.
Little Girl Destroys Gardens
Alexandrskiy Gardens, Kremlin, Moscow, Aug 2004
I thought that a Western Style Fox news title would be more catchy for this picture. This is part of the Alexandrskiy Park/gardens/yard outside the Kremlin walls. It was crowded on this day with lots of people strolling through the park relaxing, having a beer, reading, and enjoying the summer sun. I am sure that I saw a sign here which said that is was strictly forbidden to walk on the gardens and grass areas. If this is true, than this little girl is not doing what it looks like she is doing and surely in this police state the police would have caught her by this point for having such disrespect for law and order.
I thought that a Western Style Fox news title would be more catchy for this picture. This is part of the Alexandrskiy Park/gardens/yard outside the Kremlin walls. It was crowded on this day with lots of people strolling through the park relaxing, having a beer, reading, and enjoying the summer sun. I am sure that I saw a sign here which said that is was strictly forbidden to walk on the gardens and grass areas. If this is true, than this little girl is not doing what it looks like she is doing and surely in this police state the police would have caught her by this point for having such disrespect for law and order.
It Must Be The 4th of July
Alexandrskiy Gardens, Kremlin, Moscow
Parks in the former USSR are almost never shown in any form of media, never talked about much. As a result, when I came to the region in 1998, I was absolutely shocked to find so many publicly accessible parks everywhere and they are all different and heavily used by the young, old, rich and poor - everybody seems to use them. It is also not illegal (yet, I guess some USA organizations are advocating new laws about this) to enjoy a beer or wine in this park. I never see smashed bottles, garbage, or any litter on the ground. Maybe this is the kind of political oppression Colin Powell is talking about when he refers to Russia and how he does not like what he sees. How dare a despotic regime make people go out side in the summer sun and walk around the park pretending to enjoy themselves - and how dare they not feel free to litter the streets as if they were in some other democratic country! I guess the reason people are not throwing their garbage ont he ground and the reason they are not going crazy destroying everything whilst drinking int he park is because Putin is just on the other side of these Kremlin walls - it is out of sheer fear. If oppressive regimes to Colin Powell means more publicly accessible goods and services for the masses...
Parks in the former USSR are almost never shown in any form of media, never talked about much. As a result, when I came to the region in 1998, I was absolutely shocked to find so many publicly accessible parks everywhere and they are all different and heavily used by the young, old, rich and poor - everybody seems to use them. It is also not illegal (yet, I guess some USA organizations are advocating new laws about this) to enjoy a beer or wine in this park. I never see smashed bottles, garbage, or any litter on the ground. Maybe this is the kind of political oppression Colin Powell is talking about when he refers to Russia and how he does not like what he sees. How dare a despotic regime make people go out side in the summer sun and walk around the park pretending to enjoy themselves - and how dare they not feel free to litter the streets as if they were in some other democratic country! I guess the reason people are not throwing their garbage ont he ground and the reason they are not going crazy destroying everything whilst drinking int he park is because Putin is just on the other side of these Kremlin walls - it is out of sheer fear. If oppressive regimes to Colin Powell means more publicly accessible goods and services for the masses...
A View from the Top of Marseille
View from Train Station, Marseille, France
This was the view I had fromt he top of the steps in Marseille. The city looked interesting, and fortunately cheap hotels are located at the bottom of the steps. I stayed in a room on the top floor of the building on the right, just beyond this monument.
This was the view I had fromt he top of the steps in Marseille. The city looked interesting, and fortunately cheap hotels are located at the bottom of the steps. I stayed in a room on the top floor of the building on the right, just beyond this monument.
Stepping Through Marseille
Train Station, Marseille, France
In May I headed to Marseille from Bordeaux after a few days in Toulouse. When I got out of the train station with my backpack, two briefcases and some wine I picked up along the way, I realized how hot it was here and how long these steps are. The train station is coveniently located at the top of the city on a plateau. What worried me was not so much the arrival, but the fact that I would have to carry my luggage back up these steps when leaving for Torino. The city was so great, that I returned to these steps two more times with luggage and all and decided it was not so bad!
In May I headed to Marseille from Bordeaux after a few days in Toulouse. When I got out of the train station with my backpack, two briefcases and some wine I picked up along the way, I realized how hot it was here and how long these steps are. The train station is coveniently located at the top of the city on a plateau. What worried me was not so much the arrival, but the fact that I would have to carry my luggage back up these steps when leaving for Torino. The city was so great, that I returned to these steps two more times with luggage and all and decided it was not so bad!
A Beautiful City
Torino, Italy
After I left Canada in May, I made my way to Torino, Italy, where I met with a consulting firm about possible employment - ironic as it may sound, I left Canada to go to Italy about a job that would position me hopefully in the Former USSR region. The train ride from Nice to Torino was beautiful and wound upwards through the mountains passing through small towns and tunnels. Torino itself is very friendly and the city center has marble archways alongside of all the buildings making it possible to walk around under cover everywhere you go. This made more sense when it rained the following day and I did not need my umbrella. In the evening, the streets are lined with cafes filled with people enjoying coffee and wine while snacking on small tidbits (not timbits).
After I left Canada in May, I made my way to Torino, Italy, where I met with a consulting firm about possible employment - ironic as it may sound, I left Canada to go to Italy about a job that would position me hopefully in the Former USSR region. The train ride from Nice to Torino was beautiful and wound upwards through the mountains passing through small towns and tunnels. Torino itself is very friendly and the city center has marble archways alongside of all the buildings making it possible to walk around under cover everywhere you go. This made more sense when it rained the following day and I did not need my umbrella. In the evening, the streets are lined with cafes filled with people enjoying coffee and wine while snacking on small tidbits (not timbits).
пятница, сентября 17, 2004
Who Said There Were No Markets In The USSR?
New Tiles Not Needed: Markets Will Take Care of Themselves
This is a picture of a different market from the one below, obviously. You can tell by the different style of the tiles. If you look carefully at the picture below of the "New Market" there are green metal stands on which people sell their products whereas here the market has cement stands with some tiles left remaining. I think there is a book here in the making for economists concerned with subtle market details (tiles versus green metal?). In this shot, you can see an elderly pensioner in the bottom right hand corner - she is the person the economists missed while they were talking about tiles. She sits here in the market most days asking for handouts since her pension no longer covers basic food. Meanwhile the government has decided that these tiles look bad - they are falling off, so there is serious construction going on in other parts of the market to tear out the old cement and tiles, and install new tiles from Europe. I cannot imagine how people managed to sell things on these old tiles. They do not work as well as prettier newer ones - especially high quality imported ones - they sell more faster.
On the top of the counter in the market is a selection of chocolates in boxes for sale. In spite of the appearance, the chocolates are actually pretty decent. My first Russian teacher told me that the best chocolates and caviar in the Soviet Union used to be wrapped in plain paper, why would you need to decorate something that is already good - you do not eat the wrapping, you eat the chocolate.
Over the past 13 years, the cash-strapped governments (the ones now focusing on new tiles) have been unable to take care of public spaces like this one and it looks perhaps worse than it would have prior to 1991. Around the corner from here is an isle with wine and beer on tap, and not far from there are rows of new stalls for people to sell their goods from rather than in the open like here.
There is no Starbucks here - yet - or Second Cup. But do not worry, markets take care of themselves. A seller will come around with a small cart and sell coffee, tea, drinks and you can buy a plastic cup from the seller or do what most environmentally sensitive people do here - bring your own cup. In spite of the fact that this place looks different, and the people speak a different language and have, according to some economists, a Soviet Mentality, the fact is that most people do not like shopping without the convenience of a cup of java. Java sellers will find their way to people, whether the tiles are pretty or not.
This is a picture of a different market from the one below, obviously. You can tell by the different style of the tiles. If you look carefully at the picture below of the "New Market" there are green metal stands on which people sell their products whereas here the market has cement stands with some tiles left remaining. I think there is a book here in the making for economists concerned with subtle market details (tiles versus green metal?). In this shot, you can see an elderly pensioner in the bottom right hand corner - she is the person the economists missed while they were talking about tiles. She sits here in the market most days asking for handouts since her pension no longer covers basic food. Meanwhile the government has decided that these tiles look bad - they are falling off, so there is serious construction going on in other parts of the market to tear out the old cement and tiles, and install new tiles from Europe. I cannot imagine how people managed to sell things on these old tiles. They do not work as well as prettier newer ones - especially high quality imported ones - they sell more faster.
On the top of the counter in the market is a selection of chocolates in boxes for sale. In spite of the appearance, the chocolates are actually pretty decent. My first Russian teacher told me that the best chocolates and caviar in the Soviet Union used to be wrapped in plain paper, why would you need to decorate something that is already good - you do not eat the wrapping, you eat the chocolate.
Over the past 13 years, the cash-strapped governments (the ones now focusing on new tiles) have been unable to take care of public spaces like this one and it looks perhaps worse than it would have prior to 1991. Around the corner from here is an isle with wine and beer on tap, and not far from there are rows of new stalls for people to sell their goods from rather than in the open like here.
There is no Starbucks here - yet - or Second Cup. But do not worry, markets take care of themselves. A seller will come around with a small cart and sell coffee, tea, drinks and you can buy a plastic cup from the seller or do what most environmentally sensitive people do here - bring your own cup. In spite of the fact that this place looks different, and the people speak a different language and have, according to some economists, a Soviet Mentality, the fact is that most people do not like shopping without the convenience of a cup of java. Java sellers will find their way to people, whether the tiles are pretty or not.
Wine While You Shop
"Tapping" Into The Market
I did not know what I would be able to find in the Former Soviet Union when I first came here (to Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan) in 1998. There were a lot of things I missed from the West - such as coffee beans, The Second Cup, sushi, and did I already mention coffee? Coffee was also probably the biggest thing I missed. I figured out how to cope with these missing items between 1998 -2002 - it meant buying 10 pounds of coffee for my backpack before leaving Canada and leaving clothese behind. Sushi making supplies could also be packed into my carry on, especially wasabi powder (which is green so it won't cause problems in customs). But over the years, sushi has become available in new stores sprining up and coffee is now widely available. One of the things I did not miss about Canada, however, was the wine. I was a student almost until the time I came and wine is expensive in Canada, the selection not that great (although it is getting better). I was really happy to find this year in Odessa not only microroasters for coffee beans and a wide variety of cafes, but while walking through the market, I was able to grab a plastic glass of Cabernet. This is the kind of Post Soviet Market Reform I can live with. As you can see in the picture, the wine is available on several taps. The taps are in a T-shape for the name of the vineyard, Tayirovsky, and there are several different kinds of wine you can sample and buy. They provide plastic sterile bottles, or you can bring your own. I suppose you could bring your own fancy labels to stick on the bottles if this matters. The wine is a drinkable table wine, comes in white, rose, and red, ranging from sweet to dry. It costs approximately 7 grivnyas per litre, which is about 1.20 USD. Of course, I am waiting for society to fall apart and go into absolute reckless chaos since wine, with alcohol, is widely available in public places and there are no commissions or committees around to restore law and order. I suspect that all the consumers in this shop behaved well while they had their plastic cups of wine only since I had my camera with me.
I did not know what I would be able to find in the Former Soviet Union when I first came here (to Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan) in 1998. There were a lot of things I missed from the West - such as coffee beans, The Second Cup, sushi, and did I already mention coffee? Coffee was also probably the biggest thing I missed. I figured out how to cope with these missing items between 1998 -2002 - it meant buying 10 pounds of coffee for my backpack before leaving Canada and leaving clothese behind. Sushi making supplies could also be packed into my carry on, especially wasabi powder (which is green so it won't cause problems in customs). But over the years, sushi has become available in new stores sprining up and coffee is now widely available. One of the things I did not miss about Canada, however, was the wine. I was a student almost until the time I came and wine is expensive in Canada, the selection not that great (although it is getting better). I was really happy to find this year in Odessa not only microroasters for coffee beans and a wide variety of cafes, but while walking through the market, I was able to grab a plastic glass of Cabernet. This is the kind of Post Soviet Market Reform I can live with. As you can see in the picture, the wine is available on several taps. The taps are in a T-shape for the name of the vineyard, Tayirovsky, and there are several different kinds of wine you can sample and buy. They provide plastic sterile bottles, or you can bring your own. I suppose you could bring your own fancy labels to stick on the bottles if this matters. The wine is a drinkable table wine, comes in white, rose, and red, ranging from sweet to dry. It costs approximately 7 grivnyas per litre, which is about 1.20 USD. Of course, I am waiting for society to fall apart and go into absolute reckless chaos since wine, with alcohol, is widely available in public places and there are no commissions or committees around to restore law and order. I suspect that all the consumers in this shop behaved well while they had their plastic cups of wine only since I had my camera with me.
четверг, сентября 16, 2004
Advocating a Post Bush America
I was surprised that Bush could be doing so well in the Polls for the upcoming American Presidential election. If I were American today, and aspired to one day become the president of a land which holds so much promise, even though it rarely uses this promise for scarcely more than the benefit of 5% of its population (tax cuts for example, military campaigns for another), I guess I would have to think carefully about what I had to do. If I want to become president, I should avoid all patriotic duties, not study or do well in school, never hold a decent job, and simply accept my fate by hoping that my father becomes president first and warms the chair for me. Endorsing double standards in all aspects of life is perhaps the hardest qualification to achieve, and I am convinced that to maintain this so consistently it must take great effort. Actually, if I became president of the USA, the first thing I would do is to add color to the white house – maybe Terra Cotta with white trim. In any case, I have written below a top ten list of reasons I would vote for John Kerry, if I were American, and if I decided to exercise my vote, which I would do since it is such a luxury in the world today and a non-exercised vote is essentially support for Bush – you have to vote him out, otherwise he will stay.
Reasons (the ordering does not imply importance):
10. Iraq
9. Afghanistan
8. America – in addition to all those who suffered in Iraq and Afghanistan through the two invasions, Americans also lost lives, and innocent Americans will pay in terms of retaliation, increased hostility, and a huge tax bill.
7. The largest single budget deficit increase. This expenditure makes any socialist spending dream look like pocket change. In one war alone he has outdone any Soviet over spending on military. American taxpayers will not feel the crunch this year or next, but over the next 20 years, most future presidents, hopefully beginning this fall, 2004, will have to devote most public attention to dealing with a deficit caused by a Republican. What Education and Health care plans? Military spending would have to be decreased by a whopping whole 5% in order to dramatically improve education and health for the masses – the other 98% of the population – you know, the ones left out of all previous Bush policies except when it comes to picking up the tabs and laying down lives – there are some 340 million people in the USA, in spite of the belief by Bush that there are only some 10 million worth including.
6. The poor rich received a tax cut. It must be tough to be in the top 2% of the income earning American population! Without a tax cut they will have to pinch their bundles of 100-dollar bills with more care. Which portion of the population is in high priority when tax spending has increased unlike before? You see, if you cut taxes for the rich, they will have more money to spend and this will create jobs – sort of – they will spend more on bigger imported luxury cars which burn more fuel and this keeps oil suppliers in countries like Kuwait and Saudi Arabia, in the style of life that monarchies have come to expect.
5. John Kerry has a military service record and we know where he was, unfortunately, during the Vietnam War. We also know what he said and did afterwards. Where was Bush then and where did he stand and does he stand now? We also know the answer to these questions, but somehow many want to pretend they don't know what they know we all know about what we know. You know? Ask Rumsfeld and Cheney first.
4. Cheney.
3. Does this recent war mean Rumsfeld, Saddam Hussein and Osama Bin Laden are no longer friends? Is this what friends do to friends? Do friends let friends run their countries/politcal groupings drunk?
2. Did I mention Iraq and Afghanistan? Where to next?
1. He ain’t Bush.
Reasons (the ordering does not imply importance):
10. Iraq
9. Afghanistan
8. America – in addition to all those who suffered in Iraq and Afghanistan through the two invasions, Americans also lost lives, and innocent Americans will pay in terms of retaliation, increased hostility, and a huge tax bill.
7. The largest single budget deficit increase. This expenditure makes any socialist spending dream look like pocket change. In one war alone he has outdone any Soviet over spending on military. American taxpayers will not feel the crunch this year or next, but over the next 20 years, most future presidents, hopefully beginning this fall, 2004, will have to devote most public attention to dealing with a deficit caused by a Republican. What Education and Health care plans? Military spending would have to be decreased by a whopping whole 5% in order to dramatically improve education and health for the masses – the other 98% of the population – you know, the ones left out of all previous Bush policies except when it comes to picking up the tabs and laying down lives – there are some 340 million people in the USA, in spite of the belief by Bush that there are only some 10 million worth including.
6. The poor rich received a tax cut. It must be tough to be in the top 2% of the income earning American population! Without a tax cut they will have to pinch their bundles of 100-dollar bills with more care. Which portion of the population is in high priority when tax spending has increased unlike before? You see, if you cut taxes for the rich, they will have more money to spend and this will create jobs – sort of – they will spend more on bigger imported luxury cars which burn more fuel and this keeps oil suppliers in countries like Kuwait and Saudi Arabia, in the style of life that monarchies have come to expect.
5. John Kerry has a military service record and we know where he was, unfortunately, during the Vietnam War. We also know what he said and did afterwards. Where was Bush then and where did he stand and does he stand now? We also know the answer to these questions, but somehow many want to pretend they don't know what they know we all know about what we know. You know? Ask Rumsfeld and Cheney first.
4. Cheney.
3. Does this recent war mean Rumsfeld, Saddam Hussein and Osama Bin Laden are no longer friends? Is this what friends do to friends? Do friends let friends run their countries/politcal groupings drunk?
2. Did I mention Iraq and Afghanistan? Where to next?
1. He ain’t Bush.
среда, сентября 15, 2004
Free Market Signals
There were less advertisements several years ago - but I must admit I like these no-pressure-to-buy signs. They simply tell you what is for sale down various aisles of the market. Clearly people buy products for the sake of the products and the brand names and packaging play no role in enticing people to buy. This is why rational Western Corportations in Capitalist societies do not waste resources on making things pretty and attractive - instead it is all about efficiency. which society is outdoing which society here?
Do you want fries with that?
If everyone had to buy their meat this way, there would be more vegetarians in the world. You can actually select your own cuts from various portions of dead animals. In case you forgot what this part of the Privoz market was selling, there are also various pitcures along the walls of pleasant animals grazing in natural farm settings. In the upper right hand corner, the pig tending to the piglets is just visable and reduces the guilt over the quality of life these slaughtered victims once had before dedicating their life to the good of the cause.
Dissolution - Clear Signs of Independence
They Changed the name from Red Square, but the statue of Lenin remains. (Odessa, Ukraine)
You can change the name of a place, and you can call your country independent all you want, but what surprises me is that there has been a lack of effort to at least make all things appear obviously changed. President Karimov of Uzbekistan has outdone Ukraine on this front. He took all the reminders of Lenin and Russia out of the country and placed instead statues and symbols of an Uzbek history that never existed - very creative.
You can change the name of a place, and you can call your country independent all you want, but what surprises me is that there has been a lack of effort to at least make all things appear obviously changed. President Karimov of Uzbekistan has outdone Ukraine on this front. He took all the reminders of Lenin and Russia out of the country and placed instead statues and symbols of an Uzbek history that never existed - very creative.
Fashionable Fidel Castro
Would Fidel Approve?
Along the main pedestrian street in Odessa, there is a hip taverna named after Fidel Castro, located next to MacDonald's. This combination should give people in the West a clear idea of the kind of experimentation that is underway in the Former Soviet Republics. When MacDonald's appeared on the scene, people claimed that the society was opening up. Could it be that after 13 years of "Westernization" and the fact that transition has not resulted in the kind of wealth people thought it would that now Fidel's presence suggests something new and different? Several years ago, I noticed that there were few fancy places at all for enjoying night life in a Western way - most places were free of themes and frugal. Now there is a huge growth in themed bars and cafes and a great deal of experimentation. It used to be difficult to find T-shirts here, especially ones with some form of pictures or logos on them. Now you can get soccer jerseys, but I am noticing a lot of young people sporting CCCP shirts, shorts and jogging pants. It might be appropriate afterall that Fidel being next to MacDonald's in Odessa represents more than just a coincidence - it seems to me to be a direct challenge to Americanization. If MacDonald's starts serving Castro Fries, I will be pleasantly surprised.
Along the main pedestrian street in Odessa, there is a hip taverna named after Fidel Castro, located next to MacDonald's. This combination should give people in the West a clear idea of the kind of experimentation that is underway in the Former Soviet Republics. When MacDonald's appeared on the scene, people claimed that the society was opening up. Could it be that after 13 years of "Westernization" and the fact that transition has not resulted in the kind of wealth people thought it would that now Fidel's presence suggests something new and different? Several years ago, I noticed that there were few fancy places at all for enjoying night life in a Western way - most places were free of themes and frugal. Now there is a huge growth in themed bars and cafes and a great deal of experimentation. It used to be difficult to find T-shirts here, especially ones with some form of pictures or logos on them. Now you can get soccer jerseys, but I am noticing a lot of young people sporting CCCP shirts, shorts and jogging pants. It might be appropriate afterall that Fidel being next to MacDonald's in Odessa represents more than just a coincidence - it seems to me to be a direct challenge to Americanization. If MacDonald's starts serving Castro Fries, I will be pleasantly surprised.
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